When people think of Sohra (Cherrapunji) in Meghalaya, waterfalls and Living Root Bridges are usually the first things that come to mind. But beneath these hills lies another world that people often miss to see.
This article is a travel guide and my experience of doing the Krem Mawmluh Caving in Meghalaya located near Mawmluh Village 3 km from Sohra (Cherrapunji) town.
In December 2016, I got the opportunity to explore nearly 2.6 km inside the cave during a caving expedition.
Quick Facts About Krem Mawmluh
→ The word krem in Khasi means “Cave” and Mawmluh is the village near which the cave is.
→ Krem Mawmluh is the fourth longest cave in the Indian subcontinent, with over 7.2 km of mapped passages.
→ The cave is part of the Meghalayan Age, the latest age in Earth’s official geological timeline, which began around 4,200 years ago and continues today.
→ It was first explored by British officer Lieutenant Yule in 1844.
→ The cave has since been explored and mapped by the Meghalaya Adventurers’ Association (MAA) along with international speleologists.
→ In 2022, Krem Mawmluh was recognized among the First 100 Geological Heritage Sites by the International Union of Geological Sciences (IUGS).
What Makes Krem Mawmluh Special?
Krem Mawmluh is located near Mawmluh Village, about 3 km from Sohra (formerly Cherrapunji) in Meghalaya’s East Khasi Hills district.
Most people visiting Sohra come for places like Nohkalikai Falls, Seven Sisters Falls, the Double Decker Living Root Bridge Trek, and sometimes Mawsmai Cave or Arwah Cave.
Krem Mawmluh, however, is different from the other caves in Sohra. It isn’t a cave where you simply buy a ticket and walk inside. Exploring it requires experienced local guides and proper caving gear.
What makes Krem Mawmluh even more special is its geological significance.
A stalagmite found inside the cave was used to define the Meghalayan Age, the latest age of the Holocene Epoch in Earth’s official geological timescale.
How I Ended Up Caving in Krem Mawmluh
Back in 2016, I was studying Anthropology in college when I came across an announcement for a caving expedition in Meghalaya.
The itinerary immediately caught my attention. It included camping near Krem Mawmluh, exploring the cave with local guides, and trekking to the Double Decker Living Root Bridge.
I had already explored Mawsmai Cave and Arwah Cave during my backpacking trip to Meghalaya two years earlier, but those were tourist caves with proper walkways, lights and comparatively easy access.
Krem Mawmluh was different. We would be camping near the cave, hiking deep inside it with local guides, crossing underground streams, and spending hours beneath the surface.
It felt less like sightseeing and more like an expedition, which made me even more excited.
Day 1 – The Journey to Sohra
On 16th December 2016, we started our journey from Guwahati.
The expedition was organized by the Global Adventure Association (GAA), based in Guwahati, and was flagged off by Shri J. N. Borchetiya, Deputy Director of Sports & Youth Welfare, Government of Assam, at the DSYW Complex in Dispur.
There were 18 participants from different parts of Assam, along with five members from GAA.
Like every trip to Sohra, the drive itself was beautiful.
Crossing Umiam Lake and then heading towards Sohra, watching clouds rest gently over the hills and valleys, is one of the many reasons why I love Meghalaya. As we climbed higher, the air became cooler and fresher.
From Sohra, we took the road towards Mawmluh village. Our vehicle dropped us about 3 km ahead, just before the Mawmluh-Cherra Cements Limited factory.
Update: The cement factory was permanently closed in 2020. The Meghalaya Government has since announced plans to develop the site as a tourism attraction.
Following the closure of the Mawmluh Cherra Cement factory, tourism emerged as an important source of livelihood for the village.
Today, the Mawmluh Tourism and Allied Activities Cooperative Society (MTAACS) manages and promotes tourism activities, creating opportunities for local residents.
Camping Before the Adventure
This was my third camping experience.
The first was during my Mt. Saramati trek in Nagaland, and the second was on the small island in Umiam Lake that you can spot from the viewpoint.
The first day was mostly about settling into the campsite.
Everyone got busy pitching tents while a few of us collected stones to build a simple fireplace. That was where we cooked our dinner later that evening.
I learned how large expedition tents are pitched and how a fireplace is protected from the wind by arranging rocks around it.
After dinner, we went for a short walk climbing a hill beside our campsite under the starry sky before calling it a day. The next morning, we would finally enter Krem Mawmluh.
Day 2 – Entering Krem Mawmluh
We started the day with a walk to Mawmluh village.
Our organizer knew a local family there, so we spent some time with them before returning to camp.
The walk reminded me of my earlier backpacking trip to Meghalaya, especially the trail from Coniferous Resort to Seven Sisters Falls.
By noon, we met the local caving team. They handed us everything we needed – helmets, caving suits, head torches and ropes.
I still remember wearing the caving suit on the roof of their office.
Looking at everyone dressed up in the same gear made it feel real that we were actually going inside one of India’s longest caves.
A Tiny Entrance to One of India’s Longest Caves
Just before noon, we started walking towards the cave. It was a bright sunny day.
Since it was December, the grasses had turned yellowish-brown.
The trail began with an uphill climb, followed by a relatively flat stretch, before descending through rugged terrain all the way to the cave.
We reached a rocky hill surrounded by massive boulders. I looked around, expecting to see a huge cave entrance.
Confused, I asked our guide,
“Where’s the cave?”
He smiled, pointed towards a narrow opening between two rocks and said,
“That’s the entrance. We are going inside through that.”
We switched on our head torches, adjusted our helmets, and stepped into the world of caving.
The Cave Keeps Getting Bigger
Within a few steps, daylight completely disappeared behind us.
The passage was uneven, and almost immediately we had to climb over huge boulders, traverse and crawl through it.
A little further ahead, we reached what looked like a dead end. There was a pool of water in front of us.
With waist-deep water as we waded across the pool. Our local guides fixed ropes to help us climb up to next section of the cave.
Until then, the cave had felt narrow.
A few minutes later, it completely surprised me.
The passage suddenly opened into a huge chamber. I just stood there looking around in awe. The space was as huge as several badminton courts.
I wasn’t able to capture its the enormous space inside the cave during my expedition, so this Wikimedia Commons image gives a better idea of its size.
You can follow Wann Majaw’s work here on Instagram.
It was difficult to believe that such a massive space existed beneath the ground. Just a few minutes earlier, we had entered through a small opening hidden between rocks.
That was when I realized how enormous Krem Mawmluh really is.
Walking Beside an Underground Stream
Ahead, the passage became narrower again, though it was still wide enough to walk through.
As we continued walking, the sound of flowing water became louder.
Soon we were walking beside the underground stream itself.
The water wasn’t transparent. It looked milky white, flowing through some stretches while collecting in small circular rock pools in others.
The rocks were slippery, so we walked carefully. Every now and then, the guides stopped to make sure the entire group stayed together.
The only sound inside the cave was that of the flowing stream. Apart from that, it was surprisingly quiet.
The Hanging Garden
After walking for nearly one hour and twenty minutes and covering around 2.6 km, we finally reached a spot known as the “The Hanging Garden.”
This was probably my favourite part of the cave.
The ceiling was filled with stalactites hanging from above, while stalagmites had slowly grown from the cave floor over thousands of years.
Until then, I had only seen formations like these in Mawsmai and Arwah Caves. Seeing them this deep inside a cave felt completely different.
We spent some time here resting, taking photographs and simply looking around before beginning our return journey.
Back to Daylight
We returned by the same route.
The waist-deep pools, slippery rocks and narrow passages that had looked challenging while entering somehow felt easier now.
Soon, we could see daylight again. A few more steps and we were outside.
After spending more than two hours underground, the fresh air felt different. So did the sunlight.
I finally understood why people travel from different parts of the world just to explore the caves of Meghalaya.
The walk back to the campsite was a cheerful one. We sang songs along the way, and although everyone was tired, there was a quiet sense of satisfaction after spending the day inside Krem Mawmluh.
Back at the campsite, we gathered for a group photo. I remember eating a few slices of bread hurriedly and posing for the group picture.
Day 3 – Off to Nongriat Village
Our caving adventure was over, but the expedition wasn’t.
The next morning, we packed our tents and headed towards Tyrna Village and start our hike down to the Nongriat Vilalge where the famous Double Decker Living Root Bridge is.
After spending a day underground , we were now going to explore Meghalaya’s forests, villages and descending down thousands of steps.
I will soon be publishing my blog post on Double Decker Living Root Bridge Trek and will link it here.
In the Press
The successful completion of our caving expedition was covered by Pratidin Time, an Assamese news channel based in Guwahati.
Looking back at the news footage almost ten years later feels quite nostalgic. It’s always nice to revisit these old memories and see a younger version of myself on television.
I’ve added a screenshot from the news coverage below.
You can also watch the Facebook video shared by our expedition organizer.
Can You Visit Krem Mawmluh?
Yes, but not in the same way you visit Mawsmai or Arwah Cave.
Krem Mawmluh is not a cave where you buy a ticket and explore on your own.
The cave has underground streams, slippery rocks, narrow passages and sections that become dangerous, especially during the monsoon.
If you’re planning to visit, go with experienced local guides and proper caving equipment.
How to Reach Krem Mawmluh?
To reach Krem Mawmluh, you have to first reach Mawmluh Village or Stay in Sohra town. From Shillong – the capital of Meghalaya, Sohra is around 53 kilometers, added by 3 more kilometers till Mawmluh.
Then the hiking starts through the hills to the Mawluh cave.
Where to Stay for Krem Mawmluh Caving?
We stayed in tents as part of the expedition, but if you’re planning your own trip, you can find the best hotels and homestays in Sohra (Cherrapunji) here.
Whom to contact for Caving in Krem Mawmluh?
In Meghalaya, for caving in Krem Mawmluh , you can get in touch with the Mawmluh Tourism and Allied Activities Cooperative Society (MTAACS), Meghalaya Adventurers Association (MAA) or Duia Trailblaizers.
In Assam, I did it with Global Adventures Association, and I have seen Assam Mountaineering Association (AMA) organizing caving in Krem Mawmluh.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to explore Krem Mawmluh is between October and March, when the weather is relatively dry.
It is best to avoid the monsoon season, as water levels inside the cave can rise significantly making many sections risky.
Do I have to Carry my Own Caving Gears?
No, caving gears such as the caving suit, headlamp, helmet and gumboots will be provided by them. You can wear them at the Mawmluh Cave and Changing Room Office.
Responsible Caving
Krem Mawmluh is an important geological site and not just an adventure destination.
While exploring the cave,
→ Do not litter.
→ Stay with your group.
→ Do not break stalactites and stalagmites.
→ Do not write your name on the cave walls.
→ Respect the cave and its fragile ecosystem.
Almost Ten Years Later
It’s been almost ten years since this expedition, but I still remember asking our guide, “Where’s the cave?” while standing right in front of it. Every time I pass through the Mawmluh area on my way to Sohra, that memory comes back.
Since then, I’ve travelled to many places and explored a few more caves, including Krem Puri in Mawsynram and Siju Cave in South Garo Hills. Yet, Krem Mawmluh remains special.
Maybe it’s because it was my first proper caving expedition. Or maybe it was the excitement of stepping into an unknown world, crossing underground streams, and walking nearly 2.6 km inside one of India’s longest caves.
If you’re looking for something beyond the usual waterfalls and viewpoints of Meghalaya, Krem Mawmluh is one adventure that’s well worth experiencing.
I need to go Caving in Krem Mawmluh again.
Unless otherwise stated, all photographs in this article were taken by members of our expedition team and the Global Adventure Association during the Krem Mawmluh caving expedition in December 2016.
This article on Mongabay titled “A village turns its geological history into a tourism opportunity.” beautifully explains the process of transformation after the factory was dismantled, and how now protecting ecology and as well as selective tourism around Mawmluh Cave is being done.
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